Understanding Anvil Types and Their Uses

The Anvil as the Cornerstone of Your Forge

Every blacksmithing workshop, from a garage corner to a dedicated shed, revolves around the anvil. Its shape, weight, and condition dictate what you can make and how comfortably you can make it. For hobbyists and small workshops, understanding the differences between London pattern, farrier, and stake anvils is the first step towards buying the right tool. This guide walks you through each type and its typical uses.

London Pattern Anvil: The All-Rounder

The London pattern anvil is the iconic shape most people picture. It has a tapered horn, a flat face, a step, a heel, and usually a hardy hole and a pritchel hole. Weights range from 20 kg bench anvils to 300 kg industrial monsters. For general blacksmithing, a 50–100 kg London pattern is a superb choice for a hobbyist.

Each part of the London pattern has a specific job:

• Face: main hardened steel surface for hammering and flattening.
• Horn: conical shape for bending curves and drawing out tapers.
• Step: lower flat area for cutting with a chisel or hot cut.
• Hardy hole: square hole for holding hardy tools.
• Pritchel hole: round hole for punching, letting slug fall through.

When buying a London pattern anvil, test its rebound by dropping a hammer from about 30 cm. A good anvil returns most energy with a clear ring. A dull thud suggests cast iron or damage. Avoid deep swayback or chipped edges unless you plan to dress them. Mount it firmly on a hardwood stump or steel stand, securing with chains or a silicone mat.

Farrier Anvil: Light and Purposeful

A farrier anvil is designed for one job: making and fitting horseshoes. These anvils are lighter than London patterns, often 40–80 kg, because farriers carry them to yards and stables. The face is narrower, and the horn is longer and more slender, helping when turning heels and drawing clips. Many have a clip horn on the heel instead of a step, and some a small turning cam. They usually lack a pritchel hole.

If you mainly shoe horses or do light decorative ironwork, a farrier anvil serves well. It is handy for small workshops with limited space, being easier to move and store. However, the lighter weight absorbs less hammer blow, so it is not ideal for heavy forging or sledge work. For general blacksmithing, a London pattern of similar weight is more stable.

Stake Anvils: Precision and Reach

Stake anvils are a different breed. Instead of a large free-standing block, a stake anvil is a smaller head on a shank that fits into a hardy hole, stake plate, or sturdy vice. You will also hear them called bickerns, T-stakes, or hardy anvils. Their shapes vary enormously: flat, round, ball, hatchet, creasing, and many more. This makes them perfect for sheet metal work, armour forming, raising, planishing, and riveting.

The great advantage of a stake anvil is reach. Because the head is small and the shank holds it out from the vice or plate, you can work inside curves and on complex forms impossible on a London pattern. For a small workshop, a set of stake anvils in different shapes, used with a heavy vice or stake plate, adds flexibility without taking up much floor space. They are not for heavy forging, though; use lighter hammers and softer metals such as copper, brass, or thin steel.

Choosing the Right Anvil for Your Work

The best anvil for you depends on what you make most often. If your passion is general blacksmithing, bladesmithing, or decorative ironwork, a London pattern anvil is the logical first purchase. Aim for the heaviest you can afford and fit; 50 kg is a practical minimum for hobby work, and 100 kg or more is better for heavy blows. For farriery, a farrier anvil is the specialist tool. For sheet metal or armour, invest in a few stake anvils and a solid mounting system.

Here is a quick guide:

• General blacksmithing: London pattern, 50–150 kg, good horn and hardy hole.
• Farriery or light portable work: farrier anvil, 40–80 kg, long slender horn.
• Sheet metal and intricate forming: stake anvils in various shapes, plus a stake plate or heavy vice.

Inspect any second-hand anvil carefully. Check for cracks, especially around the hardy hole, and excessive wear on the face. A little swayback is acceptable, but deep dips make flattening difficult. Ensure it sits flat and does not rock. Mount it at the correct height: the face should be roughly at knuckle height when you stand upright with arms relaxed.

Practical Wisdom for the Small Workshop

No single anvil does everything perfectly. Most experienced hobbyists start with a London pattern and add stake anvils as their work demands. If space is tight, a London pattern around 50 kg plus a vice and a few stake anvils covers a surprising range of projects. Farrier anvils often appear second-hand at reasonable prices, and can be a good entry point if you are patient and work with lighter stock.

Remember that an anvil is a long-term investment. Buy the best condition you can afford, and avoid cheap cast iron anvil-shaped objects that deaden your hammer blows. A good anvil will ring true for decades, supporting your skills as they grow. Whether you choose a London pattern, a farrier anvil, or stake anvils, the right shape makes your time at the forge more productive and enjoyable.